Accuracy starts with a good quality bow that fits you, your compound bow should be set up to fit your dimensions. Many people don’t want to spend a lot on a new bow and then would buy the next second hand bow available nothing wrong with that if you still take it in to a bow-shop to get it adjusted to your draw length and maybe set the draw weight down for starters and that’s where you start with improving compound bow accuracy
The draw length at full draw should let you hold the arrow back in a comfortable position with your elbow straight in line with the arrow allowing the string to touch your nose.
The draw weight should be easy to draw smoothly back from a sitting position when it is too heavy you will not hold it steadies on target at full draw for a period.
When, you get your draw length and draw weight right we can look at the following topics to fine tune your accuracy. First don’t worry if you don’t hit the bull mark on your target, you need to group your arrows at the same spot and as tight as possible, then go to tune the bow if needed.
The grip of the bow is the only contact with the bow, to constantly grip the bow in the torque free spot you have to line it up with bone to bone contact this is just inside the life line on the base of the thumb region
Draw a line on the ground directly in line to your target now stand with your big toes on the line facing 90 degree away from the target, when you lift your bow arm up shoulder-high pointing at the target this is the position you want when at full draw with the release hand elbow and forearm parrallel inline with the arrow.
This way you get maximum draw length and you would line your bone structure up to hold most of the draw weight rather than your muscles and you would be able to hold the draw for a longer time. In the end your feet won’t matter anymore but it is to train you upper body the correct form.
The best is to make use of the three anchor points on your face but at the least use two. When at full draw you should let the string touch your nose while your release hand find a spot on your cheek bone or jaw, I push my thumb knuckle in just below my ear what ever works for you as long you find the same spot every time.
Install a kisser on your string, the kisser is a small rubber disk that just get clamp onto the string. The kisser would be inline with the corner of your mouth and it gives a third reference point in comparison to the nose and hand points.
The Paper Test
A paper test is done by shooting an arrow through a paper into the target. Set a paper up to be at least an arrow’s length away from the target so that the full length of arrow is still flying through the paper before hitting the target.
Inspect the shot holes if every thing is good you should see a small hole with the vane’s 3 cuts no longer than the vane that means the arrow fly straight and true but if the hole rip to a side it means that the arrow is wobbling.
This can be one of two things either the arrow’s spine is to soft or the bow needs tuning. First check that the arrows you are shooting is rated for the draw weight of your bow because a tremendous amount of energy is transferred to the arrow which will make the arrow to bend under that force hence the wobble affect the same happens when the bow’s nocking position is not inline with the arrow rest.
Tunning The Bow
Some tuning can be done by yourself but and it is best to take it to a bow-shop pro. First inspect the string and cables, 2 year and older strings might need replacing as it stretch and twist. This can move the cam alignment and the nocking position on the string the peep sight can also move and all these under lying problems will affect the accuracy of the bow.
He will also determine whether the cams is still synchronized on a twin cam bow and do the necessary adjustments if needed.
The pin sizes of the sight is critical to shooting accuracy, if the pins are too big the target is blocked, outfit your sight with the smallest you can see I am using a slider with a green dot the brighter the bigger the dot so I am always setting it for the smallest dot I can see in the current light conditions.
Make sure that the peep sight is at the correct height in the string to test this close your eyes then draw to full draw get your anchor points and the open your eyes you should look straight through the peep sight at this point if not it needs adjustment.
Getting the arrow rest and the nock point at 90 degrees to the string is called the center shot for this you would need a bow square or a laser sighter. The arrow nocks on this 90 degree point on the string and the D-loop tied around it, if this point is out the bow will shoot constantly lower or higher and won’t run straight through on a paper test shot.
Arrow spine is the stiffness of the arrow with the higher number more flexible. All arrows flex when coming out of the bow before recovering and flying to the target. Lower draw weight bows with smoother cams shoots best with a more flexible spine. Make sure that your arrows is rated for your compound bow’s speed.
The arrow’s balance point should be forward from the center of the arrow in short it means there should be more weight on the front end of the arrow make this test with the field tip in the arrow.
Your arrows should be a specific length compared to your draw length and all your arrows should weigh the same a small difference is acceptable.
Spin test each arrow by rolling them on a flat surface with the ends hanging off if it wobbles replace it.
Wrist strap releases should be a crisp precise surprise triggering sensation with a high quality polished trigger mechanism.
If you are suffering from trigger punching then a thumb release will eliminate that but needs a bit more work.
Some hunters practice with a wrist strap release and hunt with a thumb release but both would need practice. I just stick to my high quality wrist strap release that way it ad to my consistency
I suggest that you shoot a few shots under supervision of your bow-shop pro so that the can help you with form mistakes you make. The only thing that’s left after you got the anchor point figured out, how to stand when drawing and your compound bow is tuned in and you are shooting tight groupings is to practice.
Let some arrows fly on a weekly basis with enough rest between shots, don’t shoot if you are tired. With every shot always do the same thing over and over. Consistently doing the same form until it becomes second nature where you don’t have to think about how to aim because when you draw an arrow on a prey you got other things to think about like when to release and where to aim on the animal to hit the vitals.
I believe this information will help to improve your compound bow accuracy best of luck but most of all enjoy it.